KOKOMO: The Flavor That Pulls You Back to Williamsburg - AmNews Curtain Raiser

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Friday, December 5, 2025

KOKOMO: The Flavor That Pulls You Back to Williamsburg

 

Ria and Kevol (Kev) Graham


KOKOMO: The Flavor That Pulls You Back to Williamsburg

There are restaurants you stumble into by accident. And then some restaurants make you plan your day around getting there. KOKOMO sits firmly in the second category. It is one of the reasons — maybe the reason — to cross the bridge and land in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. 



The atmosphere hits immediately: warm light, polished wood, a Caribbean pulse running through the room. Ten out of ten on vibe. Ten out of ten on service. And the food? That’s where the restaurant stops whispering and starts speaking in full voice.


If you grew up in Brooklyn and you’re pushing forty, you remember when this stretch of Williamsburg was untouched. Before the boutiques. Before the cranes. Before the cocktail bars spilled onto every corner. Walking down this block for the first time in years felt like déjà vu wrapped in disbelief. But then KOKOMO appeared — alive, bold, family-rooted — and suddenly this wasn’t the Williamsburg I remembered, but it was one I could love.


A Family at the Center


This is an African American– and Jamaican-owned restaurant, created by the husband-and-wife team Ria and Kevol (Kev) Graham. They describe KOKOMO as an extension of their family — their children, their Caribbean heritage, their Brooklyn story. They opened in July 2020, when most businesses were closing their doors. And somehow, instead of shrinking, KOKOMO grew. It became a destination and a neighborhood anchor. That tells you how deeply Brooklyn embraced them.


The space itself carries the Graham family’s fingerprints. Literally. Kev, his father-in-law, and relatives built the restaurant from the ground up, bringing the same skill they’ve used on major city construction contracts. You can feel that sturdiness when you sit down — beauty with backbone.


But then the food lands, and all you can do is focus.



The Food: A Caribbean Story Told Through Every Plate

KOKOMO doesn’t just serve Caribbean-inspired dishes. They stretch the definition, folding in technique, memory, and imagination until each plate feels like a journey. The word “inspired” matters here. It opens the door for creativity — and they walk right through it.


The Dishes That Start the Conversation


Scotch Bonnet Lobster Bisque
A bowl that announces itself before it even hits the table. The broth is rich and peppery, carrying the warmth of Scotch bonnet without letting it take over. Floating inside are soft-boiled dumplings and pieces of cho cho, absorbing everything like tiny flavor sponges. It’s comfort, luxury, and island hunger in one ladle.


Ackee & Saltfish Shumai
A perfect example of how KOKOMO plays with tradition. Jamaica’s national dish becomes delicate shumai, steamed and dressed escovitch-style. A swipe of mango chutney brings sweet brightness. A drizzle of Scotch bonnet sauce adds that lift at the end.


Ceviche Negro
Fluke sits in a dark, glossy marinade kissed with pineapple Scotch bonnet sauce. Pepino cools the heat, while pickled pearl onion wakes the palate. Every bite moves — heat, sweet, crunch, cool.


Curry Crab Gyoza
Soft shells, deeply seasoned crab, and a curry that doesn’t ask for attention — it demands it.


Vadouvan Curry Tempura Shrimp
Crisp edges, gentle spice, and a curry perfume that rises the moment you break the coating.


For the Vegans and the Homesick

Rasta Balls
Lentils shaped into meatballs, sitting in red Thai curry, surrounded by roasted pearl onions and black sesame sauce. Hearty without being heavy.


Sautéed Callaloo
Tender callaloo layered with fried plantain chips and coconut breadcrumbs. For anyone who has ever tried to recreate home using memory alone, this dish feels like relief.


Flatbreads With Attitude

Each one deserves a headline, but the Oxtail Flatbread is the one that makes you lean back in your chair.


Slow-braised oxtail. Tomato confit. Crispy fried onions. Italian cheese blend. The crust holds everything together without losing crunch. It’s familiar but new, bold but controlled.


Whether you want shrimp, jerk chicken, roasted mushrooms, or truffles, there is a version that feels like it was made for you.


Entrées That Set the Standard


This menu is built on richness — slow cooking, deep seasoning, layered sauce work, and emotion.


Braised Oxtail
Tender oxtail in its own glossy gravy, paired with cassareep pumpkin purée. Earthy, sweet, savory — the plate feels like a memory.


Sofrito Roast Chicken
The skin crackles. The cranberry–sorrel sauce brings tartness and color. Coco bread stuffing completes the picture.


Curry Lamb Shank
Fall-apart lamb resting on breadfruit mash. A slow, satisfying dish you’ll want to linger over.


Snapper Your Way
Fried or roasted. Escovitch-style or glazed in ginger tamarind chutney. Each version sings.


Open-Fire Jerk Chicken
Smoky, juicy, and finished with spiced rum cashew glaze. A dish that stays with you.


XO Udon
Calamari and shrimp tossed in fiery XO sauce. High heat, high flavor.


Biang Biang Rasta Noodles
Wide, hand-pulled noodles you can top with roasted chicken, shrimp, or oxtail. A meeting point between Asia and the Caribbean that makes perfect sense once you taste it.


Sides You Shouldn’t Skip


Diri Djon Djon (Haitian Black Mushroom Rice)
Deep, savory, and aromatic — the kind of rice that stands on its own.


Breadfruit Mash
Creamy with a whisper of smoke.


Mac & Cheese
Four cheeses melted into one rich, stretchy pull.


Coco Bread Stuffing
Soft, savory, slightly sweet — a sleeper hit.


Braised Cabbage
Thyme, butter, tenderness.


Brussels Sprouts
Roasted with caramelized red onion and herb vinaigrette.


And yes, the fried sweet plantains — drizzled with Scotch bonnet mango sauce and dotted with pickled peppers — should be mandatory.


Brunch Worth Planning For


Pumpkin Pancakes
Thick, warm, drenched in syrup, melting under guava butter, with eggnog whipped cream crowning the stack.


Guinness Cornbread French Toast
Topped with Baileys cream and served with crisp fried chicken. Sweet, savory, decadent.


A Menu Built on Heritage and Innovation

KOKOMO folds together Africa, the Caribbean, Asia, and Europe, not as a gimmick but as a reflection of how cultures entwine. You taste history and imagination together. There is respect for tradition and room for experimentation. Every plate invites conversation.

The Grahams describe their hospitality group as a commitment to experience, generational wealth, and representation. You can feel that ambition in the space. You can feel their love for the neighborhood. KOKOMO is both a restaurant and a statement: Caribbean excellence belongs everywhere — including the heart of Williamsburg.

With national features in outlets like Essence, Forbes, Time Out New York, and Business Insider, KOKOMO has earned its place among Brooklyn’s most famous African American-owned restaurants.



Plan Your Visit

Hours of Operation

Monday
4:00 PM – 10:30 PM

Thursday
4:00 PM – 11:00 PM

Friday – Saturday
Brunch: 11:00 AM – 4:00 PM
Dinner: 5:00 PM – 11:00 PM

Saturday
Late Night Programming: Begins at 11:00 PM

Sunday
11:00 AM – 11:00 PM (All-Day Brunch & Dinner)

Reservations are available through OpenTable or directly through the KOKOMO website: https://kokomonyc.com

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